This is our third E-Newsletter and we thank you for all the feedback we received on our first two efforts. We value your comments, so please keep them coming.
The world of cyberspace has its own set of rules. For example, some words/phrases target an email/landing page/website for blocking by spam filters and we unknowingly included one of these in our second Newsletter. Additionally, some E-gurus advise that a Newsletter should be informational and exclude anything commercial in nature. You could say we bent the rules by featuring a Holiday Gift jewelry collection, a tourmaline collection and a gift certificate order mechanism. Despite this, all your feedback was positive.
If you missed our Sept. or Oct. Newsletter, they are now archived on the Lambert website
(www.lambertgems.com).
The major purpose of our Newsletter is certainly informational. Our jewelry business is made to order and our own boutique collection. Our personal involvement with every aspect of our gemstone and jewelry business, from stone sourcing, cutting gems, to jewelry design and manufacturing is commercial, but also a labor of love. Because of this, we believe we should advise you of what we create and the special gems we are continually sourcing.
“Work is love made visible. And if you cannot work with love but only with distaste it is better that you should leave your work and sit at the gate of the temple and take alms of those who work with joy”………. Khahlil Gibran
Best Wishes for the Holiday Season and the New Year from all of us at Lambert,
Eric Forbes
Managing Director
Gem Fraud Alert
Fine quality red spinels have recently been appearing on the market and now have been followed by the flux grown synthetic red spinels that have been offered as natural stones in the Bangkok market since September. The SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute lab issued an alert in its October newsletter. Conventional gemological tests such as specific gravity, R.I. and spectroscope spectrum give identical results to natural spinels and even the rough crystals have the same appearance. Only examination under a microscope by a knowledgeable gemologist can separate these.
New Rapaport Diamond Price List Introduced
As many of you know, the trade uses the “Rapaport Diamond Price Report” as a benchmark to quote prices off (e.g., “5% off Rap”, “0% off Rap”, etc.) Now an additional list called the RapNet Price List has been introduced to reflect “the best and average asking prices for specific categories of diamonds offered for sale by the diamond trade on RapNet.” These categories of diamonds have experienced price hikes of up to 25% due to a combination of economic and market factors.
Lambert sources the best available price for a target size/grade diamond, and applies a wholesale markup. Our policy of sourcing solitaire size certificate diamonds on a demand basis allows us to avoid the high inventory cost which would require higher pricing. We combine this with our gemological knowledge and diamond education that will allow the customer to save money without sacrificing the appearance of the diamond stone.
More on Testimonials and Quotes from the Press
Now that we have started a page for this on our website, we have resumed collecting of the positive feedback from satisfied (and often jubilant) jewelry, gem cutting and gemstone customers. We never solicit these comments and we publish them in anonymous form. However, if any of you want your unsolicited comment bylined (your name included), please let us know (bylined testimonials are the most compelling types).
Statistics on Online Shopping for Fine Jewelry
According to the National Jeweler Network, statistics show that fine jewelry and watches are the fastest-growing category for online shopping. You could say that watches are somewhat like buying a car with easy to compare specifications between brands and models. Colored gemstones, fine made to order and boutique jewelry and gem cutting requires more professional expertise, customer education and help from the seller and this is where Lambert has a niche advantage. As more and more customers want the convenience of online interaction, we have stepped up our website and online program.
Bangkok Scores "Best City in Asia" Award
Lambert’s home base, the city of Bangkok, recently earned the award "Best City in Asia" in the recent Condé Nast Traveler Readers' Choice Awards. Thailand’s northern city of Chiang Mai took the second place award in this category. Thailand's Phuket and Samui Islands ranked third and sixth in the “Best in Asia Island” category." Three of the ten "Best Hotels in Asia" were awarded to three of Bangkok’s top hotels: The Peninsula, The Oriental, and the Shangri-La. In "The Top 10 Asia Resorts" category, Thailand’s Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle Resort placed number one and the Four Seasons Resort in Chiang Mai also placed in the top 10 in the Top 100 category. Over 30,000 readers in the U.S.A. participated in the annual poll to vote for their favorite cities, hotels, cruises and other categories.
A Word about the “Relative” Price of Gold
Gold jewelry set with gemstones (“your design or ours”) is Lambert’s jewelry specialty. As gold is a commodity, there will always be price fluctuations. In July 2008 it was US$935 per Troy ounce and now (Dec. 12, 2008) it is US$ 809 per Troy ounce. Back in Jan. 1986, gold was US$ 500 an ounce. Gold prices today are still not what they were 20 years ago if inflation is taken into account. Consumers bought gold jewelry set with gemstones then and they continue to buy now. The allure and beauty of gold fine jewelry settings with gemstones and gold’s lasting value transcends the particular spot price of gold at a particular point in time.
Cutting Corner
Oregon Sunstone: Lambert, over the past 1 ½ years has been faceting more and more of this unique American gemstone which is found in only two areas of Oregon; in the south-central Plush area and 150 miles away in central eastern Oregon. Special gem cutting knowledge/skills are required to bring out the unique optical phenomenon displayed by this gem.
Oregon sunstone is the only “gem quality” facet grade sunstone in the world that contains copper.
The presence of copper occurs in trace element of varying amounts which accounts for water clear to yellow and the subtle to strong body colors ranging from tans, pinks, salmon, orange and reds to greens and bicolor. Reds and greens depend on the valence form of the copper.
Copper (and hematite) platelets can also be present in a layered orientation which imparts the coppery schiller (a floating shimmer of light effect) and aventurescent glitter while still maintaining transparency in the higher grade stones.
Oregon sunstone is a labradorite family, plagioclase series member of the feldspar group of minerals. With a Moh’s hardness of 6.5 to 7.2, it compares favorably with peridot, Tanzanite and garnets. Its’ perfect cleavage in two directions dictates that a well placed sharp blow to the stone should be avoided. Prices of faceted gem grade stones are US$20 per carat (low end grade), considerably less than $100 for medium to better grade and $100 to $200 per carat for fine grades. Top quality very large faceted specimens in reds can go as high as US$2,000 per carat.
The preferred cutting priority is usually in the order of schiller and color, followed by yield. Sometimes the cutter must adopt his cutting to accommodate a cleavage plane.
Gem/Jewelry Term of the Month Pearl: The Queen of gems: Pearls have become more than a gem type for wear on special occasions. Because of their beauty, versatility and great range of sizes, colors and price points, pearls have become a “must have” fashion accessory.
Lambert has a large variety and stock of all kinds of freshwater and saltwater pearls which include single pearls, matching pairs and pearl strands. Additionally, Lambert has a wealth of in-house gemological expertise on pearls and pearl jewelry design and manufacturing expertise. Feel free to contact Lambert for pearl information and to help you with your pearl requirements.
The purpose of the information below is to give a brief overview of the major types of pearls. Many of the pearl internet websites are not up-to-date with the latest advances in cultured pearls; especially with regard to freshwater pearls. Some pearl websites mistakenly misuse the term “orient” with the pearls they offer for sale and represent all their Akoya pearls as having orient, for example. Orient is a type of rainbow iridescence that occurs in only some of the pearl types that are produced with thick and very uniformly, finely layered nacre. Akoyas do not produce this degree of nacre thickness so it is very rare for an Akoya pearl to exhibit orient. Additionally, a very high percentage of the high quality freshwater, South Sea pearls and Black pearls do not have iridescence (orient). Orient is more often encountered in baroque shapes.
Pearl is the only gem created by a member of the animal kingdom and is considered the most feminine of gems. Because of the extreme rarity of natural pearls, almost all pearls are now cultured in pearl farms.
The major types of pearls now used in jewelry are Chinese freshwater pearls, and three different types of saltwater pearls: Akoya pearls, South Sea pearls and Black (“Tahitian”) pearls. All are composed of secreted layers of nacre. Nacre is composed of a particular crystalline form of calcium carbonate and a protein binder. The combination of the total thickness of the nacre and the fineness of each layer of nacre determine the degree of luster.
The Chinese, in recent years, have been the most aggressive and innovative in pearl culturing technology on several fronts. The Chinese have developed freshwater pearls of a large variety of colors and shapes. The Chinese are now producing freshwater pearls that, to the untrained eye can be mistaken for Akoya and South Sea pearls in terms of degree of blemish-free, luster and roundness. The most recent Chinese innovation is bead nucleated freshwater pearls that are round and are found in sizes of 9mm to 16mm. A Chinese freshwater pearl can cost as much a 1/5 its size/ shape saltwater counterpart. Its thick layer of nacre eliminates the problem of chipping that can occur in an Akoya that has a thin nacre layer.
Additionally, most of the “Japanese” Akoya pearls of sizes less than 7mm (and sold from Japan) have been reported as now being cultured in China.
There are different qualities and typical size ranges for each of the pearl categories. Being the product of a living animal, most pearls have some imperfections (“blemish”) on their surface with the rare, perfectly clean specimens fetching an astronomical price. For pearls that are to be affixed in a jewelry setting (rings, pendants, brooches, many earring styles), there can be significant savings by selecting a beautiful pearl that has a very obvious blemish that will be concealed by the jewelry setting.
The major factors in evaluating the quality of a pearl are luster, surface complexion, nacre thickness, shape and color. If a strand is involved, matching is added as a quality factor. Size affects the price but is not a quality factor.
The most important quality factor is luster. Luster is the degree and sharpness of reflected light. Akoya pearls have the highest potential for high luster and sharp mirror-like luster. South Sea pearls can have high luster but it is more diffused.
Although some pearl colors are more costly than other colors, the guiding choice of color should be personal preference, fashion considerations and/or skin color.
Round is the most expensive shape, followed by symmetrical drop. However personal preference, design, fashion and budget considerations will dictate the choice of shape. Depending on the pearl type, shapes can include rounds, off-rounds, semi-rounds, button, oval, circle (ringed), semi-baroque and baroque.
Body color is the general color of a pearl. Common pearl body colors are white, cream, yellow, pink, silver and black. Some pearls also exhibit a secondary color called overtone and which is seen as a subtle reflection of color off of the pearl surface. Not all quality pearls have overtone but when they have it, it is considered a plus. Each type of pearl has typical body colors and overtones for that type of pearl.
Typical Size Range, Body Colors and Overtone Colors:
Chinese freshwater pearls: 2mm - 16mm, body colors naturally range from white, cream, peach, pink and lavender. A variety of beautiful dyed colors are now very popular.
Akoya Pearls: 2mm – 10mm. Body Colors: white, cream, pink, yellow. Overtone: rose or green. Rose (pink) overtone is usually preferred as it is compatible with many skin complexions.
South Sea Pearls: 10mm–20mm (over 16mm is rare). Body Colors: white, cream, silver, gold. Overtone: rose or white.
Black (“Tahitian”) Pearls: 8mm – 16mm (and over). Body Colors: Silver gray to dark black (also dark green and brown). Overtone: green (“peacock”), reddish purple (“aubergine” or “egg plant”), blue, silver.
Gift Certificate
Gift Certificate Amount: Minimum of US$50.00 and multiples of US$50.00.
Payment: Payment by PayPal or credit card are the only payment methods accepted for purchasing/ordering a gift certificate.
We will send your gift certificate when we receive notification of your payment.
When we receive your gift certificate order, we will send you back a confirmation by email.
When applying a redeemed gift certificate to a jewelry or gem item on our website, the same rules that are on our website will apply.
